This extraordinary soft-ripened goat’s milk cheese is aged 30-45 days in the Sierra del Gredos mountains of Avila, near Madrid, with a coating of ash and mold. The current cheesemaker Paloma took over the operation from her father Rafael, who began this as a labor of love. Lactic towards the center, the paste becomes more intense and piquant towards the rind, not unlike a blue. Monte Enebro has won numerous awards; once you taste it, it becomes clear why.